SPRUCE HOLLOW

Property Ownership: Private

Nearest Town: Connellsville, PA

Rating: 2 out of 4

Photos: The Main Wall Area photo #1 The Main Wall Area photo #2 The Main Roof Area (along the stream, by the road)

Overview: This is a nice little crag if you live in the area. In the recent years it has seen a lot of vandalism such as spray paint, fire, littering, etc. Mostly these rocks are now used by the local teens to have parties at. Climbing has been closed at this area and it has been posted for the last 5 years. Local kids are still there every day hanging out and getting drunk. The vandalism has changed the scene at these rocks dramatically. Once a nice destination, is now nothing more than a garbage dump. These rocks have been used by climbers since the early 50's. I once met an old gentleman while climbing who said that he climbed there with the Boy Scouts as a teen. If you look atop the rocks you will see carvings dating back to the 30's. In more recent times, the rocks have primarily been used by climbers for the enjoyment of our sport. Many people come to these rocks to rapel during the summer months.

Getting There: This was my daily climbing area (until it was closed in 1997). It is located just off route 982 between Connellsville and Mt. Pleasant. On route 982 south you will go past Pleasant Valley Country Club (it is on both sides of the road). After the Country Club you make the first left onto Spruce Hollow Road, follow this to the stop sign. At the stop sign go straight, stay on this road about a ¼ mile the rocks are on the left right beside the road. Go up the trail to the top follow it back to the archway that you walk through, follow around this block to the right, this is where most of the climbing takes place. On the face with the tree growing around the rock is a good place to start. There are climbs all over this face as you can tell the left hand side of the chimney is easier climbs and get harder as they go right to the overhanging part.

Season: People climb here all year round. The bugs can get bad in summer and fall, so bring insect repellant.

Camping: Not much in the way of camping here.

Recommended Routes : The Castle 5.6 Dad 5.10a/b

THE ROUTES:

Front Wall "Roadside" Routes:

1. ACES 5.9+ Start to the left of the largest overhang, pull small roof, 7' off the ground, continue up and left to the top. 30'
2. Kitty Kat 5.10b Start at the largest overhang 7' off the ground, go directly out roof, pull roof and continue straight to top. 35'
3. Land Slide 5.3 Start to the right of the overhang. Climb to the horizontal crack, traverse left 3'. Large holds to the top. 35'

The next several routes are under the main roof area. Follow the trail beside the bridge to the overhang.

1. Snake ledge 5.5 Begin left of the cove under the main roof, climb 20' to ledge from ledge 25' to top. 45'
2. a. Participles 5.3 Start to the right of the cove under the main roof. Move right to the face, climb direct to base of overhang. 30'
3. b. Dangling Participles (Project) 5.13 a-b? Climb come on up to base of roof, climb out 15' roof, Pull roof 8' friction to top. 45'

The next set of climbs are on the main wall, this is the most popular area to climb and can get crowded on weekends.

1. Unamed 5.5 This climb is on the left of the chimney in the corner by the laurel. Climb up to the horizontal crack, pass over the crack continue up the wall to top. 25'
2. Chimney 5.4 Start by climbing the left side of the chimney to the standing ledge, enter the chimney, use the outside corner to make your way t the top. 30'
3. "Staff" 5.8 This climb starts on the right of the chimney before the obvious crack. (Castle) Go up the easy ledge and move left to the outside edge of the chimney. When you get to the top the word "staff" is painted on the rock. 35'
4. Unamed 5.7 This climb has the same start as staff, but doesn't move left. Ascend directly up the face. 35' (this is a very dirty climb but after a few climbs up the dirt gets brushed off)
5. The Castle 5.5 This is the most popular route at spruce. It starts directly below the obvious crack half way between the tree & the Chimney. Climb to the ledge 10', Move into the crack and climb up to the right facing flake, go right aroundthe flake & top out. 35'
6. Unamed 5.8 This climb starts under the beginning of the over vertical. Climb up to a horizontal, traverse left appx. 5' to a right facing flake, lie back the flake to the ledge, finish to the left. 35'
7. "DAD" 5.10c/d This climb starts appx. 10' to the left of the tree, and is named for the word DAD painted at the top of the route. Jump up to the hold that you can match hands on (directly below the crack), dyno up to the large ledge on the left, work into the crack on the right, follow the crack to the bulge, pull the bulge and continue to the top. 40'
8. Unamed 5.10b Strart on the right of the tree, climb to the top of the crack and climb diagonal right to the top. 35'
9. Unamed Start in the crack to the right of the previous climb, climb the crack to a horizontal ledge, traverse the ledge right to a vertical crack, climb the crack to the top. 20'

The Next 5 climbs are on the face to the right of the of the main wall. Take the trail around to the back wall. Note: quality face climbing.

1. Project 5.12? Climb the face to the roof finish by pulling the roof. 25'
2. Project 5.12? Start on the arete to the right of the roof. Climb the arete to top. 25'
3. Unnamed 5.10a This climb starts about 4' right of the arete. climb face to horizontal crack move left and finish directly above.
4. Unnamed 5.10b This climb is a nice face climb with a tough start, it takes a lot of finger strength. Climb the bare face direct to a horizontal crack a good resting place. Finish direct to the top.
5. Cubix 5.9+ Start in the short crack on the right side of this face climb crack to horizontal crack, move left and climb up to the face directly below an overhanging rock, finish just to the right of that rock.