SUNSET WALL AND THE BIG BLOCKS
Coopers Rock State Forest, WV
To get to the Sunset Wall and the Big Blocks: First turn off at the Coopers Rock exit of I 68, between Morgantown and Bruceton Mills. Then, sign in at the clipboard for climbers hanging outside the Superintendents Office on the north side of the highway. After that, drive south 3 miles along the Forest's main road toward the Overlook, and park in the first of two adjoining parking lots near the concession stand and Overlook. Follow a sometimes vague path from the near left corner for the first lot as you enter it down into the woods. Soon you'll be amongst scattered sandstone boulders. A trail goes upriver amongst them (away from the main overlook area) and Sunset Wall is only a 5 minute walk. Some very good climbs can be found before you even get to Sunset, including some nice cracks and some superb bouldering.
Four obvious features can help you identify Sunset and the Big Blocks if you've never been to them before. At the very left end of Sunset Wall is a low overhang only 7' above the ground, with an obvious crack going out through the roof. At the top left edge of the cliff, 35' up, is a roof band with some cracks in it. Then, there is an obvious left-leaning flake in the center of the face (route #4). Farther right is a chimney gap which separates Sunset Wall Left and Right, shaded by nearby trees.
Routes:
X 1.* Sunset Overhang 5.8 The left-most climb on the wall and one of four ways out the roof band. Follow the black streak up the face to the 2' diagonal hand crack out the roof. Although this climb is leadable, it is a bit runout in the middle 40'
#2. * Wide Point Roof 5.9+ / 5.10- Climb the difficult
face left of the cannonball hole up to the roof 5' to the right
of the Sunset Overhang roof-crack. Somehow surmount the strenuous
ceiling. One can solo climb most of #1 and then do the roof on
#2. #2a* Roof Variation 5.8+ Take the easier, light colored flake
out the roof 3' right of #2. 40'
#3 * Reachy 5.8+ Climb the thin, reachy face up through a difficult bulge and then surmount the roof via an easier diagonal crack. 40'
X #4 * The Arch 5.6 or 5.7 One of the most popular climbs at Sunset. Layback up the obvious left-leaning flake near the center of the wall. Go up and left to the diagonal roof crack of #3 for the 5.7 variation, or step right onto the face near the top of the layback and then head straight up to a crack at the top for the 5.6 version, This 5.6 way is a reasonable lead. 35'
X #5 * Central Face Climb 5.5 Another very popular climb, From 8' to the right of #4 climb up the face to a stance below an organ pipe-like formation. Head up and to the right, aiming for a crack near the top and a hemlock tree at the top. A reasonably protected lead. 35'
#6 Crimper 5.10- Dangle a top-rope down a gritsone face and you can usually find a way up. This way is to the right of #5, through a difficult sequence of sloping holds in the middle of the route, to a crack at the top. 35'
#7 Tweaker 5.10+ / 5.11-? A more difficult route just like #6, 5' to its right. 35'
#8 Stop N' Go 5.9+ This is the right-most route on the wall before the chimney gap. Climb up to a stance below a coppery flaky area. Cling through this part to easier rock above. A two-move wonder with easier climbing above and below. 35'
#9 5.11? This rounded arete at the right of the chimney may have been done. Looks like a hold came off. 30'
#10 * Copenhagen 5.9 One of the finest climbs here. A few feet right of the chimney gap is a line with a pocket about the size of a can of chew halfway up. Climb the face straight up past this round hole. Very nice sequence. 30'
#11 Stockholm 5.7 / 5.8 This face climb, 8' right from #10, finishes up at a pint just to the right of the blocks leaning over the top edge o the cliff. The 5.7 variation goes up a flake, then traverses a few moves left before going straight up. The 5.8 version begins 6' left of the other way and goes straight up. 25'
#12 Hole In The Wall 5.10+ Tough face climbing using the round pocket and some little edges will get you up this short route that's just a little too high and hard to boulder. 20'
#13 Mighty Mite 5.10- A real high boulder problem with a bad fall or a real short climb at the very right end of the wall, Up the face and flake. 20'
#14 <> * The Bottom Line 5.9 The longest climb at Coopers Rock State Forest at a full rope length. This is a boulder problem traverse of the whole Sunset Wall, with several cruxes, numerous rests and variations; and you're never more than 10' off the ground, except if you pull the overhang near the far left end. Start at the horn on the very right edge of the wall, and traverse all the way to the start of Sunset Overhang. Keep going around into the alcove, then (optional) take the obvious beautiful crack (or the flakes 3' to its left) out the low ceiling and up to a big horizontal crack, which you follow left around the corner until you can step down onto the ground. Or reverse the traverse at this point for maximum on-rock time 165'
X #15 * This arete is on the very right side of the Shady Side of the Big Blocks as you face toward the river, with Copenhagen behind you. Use the left face, the corner, and the crack near the top. A nice little adventure on lead. This one I height dependent, so might be easier for some. A top rope variation of similar difficulty goes up the left face at the halfway point toward the big hemlock at the top 30'
<> Shady Wall Traverse - There's a traverse across this wall that starts here and ends at Kern's Corner.
#16 * Wayward Penguins 5.10 find a pistol grip/pinch grip hold halfway up the wall below the huge hemlock. Climb one of a few ways up to it, then use the flakes above it and eventually reach out to a small ledge to the right and mantle up. A more difficult version would completely avoid the ledge and just go straight up. Look for the stone dagger near the top. 25'
#17 Kern's Corner 5.4 / 5.? This is the left side of the same face that #15 and #16 are on. There are two possibilities here. Climb the arete and then the right face to the top for an easy face climb; or stay with the harder arete the whole way up 5.?, being careful of the jaggedy tooth. 25'
#18 Another Green World 5.11 b/c locate a 2' roof about 10' off the ground 20' to the left of the chimney gap between the two Big Blocks. Try and pull onto the face above the roof, and then head for the top. 35'
X #19 * Zig-Zag Wanderer 5.7 / 5.8- find the obvious tight -slanting finger crack that leads to an alcove beneath a large roof. Take the crack to the alcove. Then take the light colored flake out the roof, onto the face, and up to the top, just left of the tree. Protects pretty decently as far as gritstone goes. 40'
#20 Full Moon Afternoon 5.6 This face route goes up some crescent shaped holds to a notch at the top, just left of the roofs. 35'
#21 * Organic Matter 5.4 / 5.5 This is the obvious flake that goes all the way to the top. Nice for its grade, and protectable too. 40'
--the following two are a high quality pair of face climbs-
#22 * Super Alloy 5.10c Very nice face climbing 4' left of the flake. You can use the same anchor point for #21 and #22. 40'
#23 * Titanium Digit 5.10b This popular route goes right up the center of the face, following a vague white streak. You'll come to understand the name near the top of this route. 40'
X #24 The End 5.6 This route goes up the nose/arete at the very far end of the block. 30'
#25 X #26 White Wall Overhangs 5.9 / 5.9+ On the river side of the Big Blocks is some very clean, white colored rock at the bottom of the face, topped by a 2' overhang 10' off the ground. There are two ways through the roofs to the easier, knobby faces above, and at least the left one is leadable. 40'
<> White Wall Traverse starts on the right side of the white wall, Go left across the nice white stone onto darker, bulgy,slick rock as far as you can for the killer forearm pump.
X #27 Riverside Face 5.4 Start to the left of the white rock ( or choose a harder start on it) and head up the vertical knobby face with hand cracks. Lots of pro. 40'
#28 5.8 A white face 12' left of #27. 35'
#29 5.4 A wide, grungy 20' crack.
#30 * Gemstone 5.8 Near the chimney gap that splits the two blocks. Starts at a roof of blocky holds, follows the crack up, then goes up and left to a crescent-shaped feature and to the top. A harder variation goes up and right at the tip of the crack. 25'
#31 Bundle Of Sticks 5.9 A short face route up hidden horizontals that's worth doing if you happen to be doing Gemstone. 25'
-the following two routes are a nice pair, very similar to one another except in difficulty-
#32 * Gypsy Moth 5.9 6' right of the orange streak, up black and white rock via small pockets and rounded edges. 25'
#33 * Carrot Juice 5.7 Go straight up the vertical, pocketed orange streak, just to the right of the gnarled pine at the top edge. 25'
X #34 Access Crack 5.2 This 20' dihedral is a nice first lead or first solo (and downclimb) and is the usual way to get to the top of the blocks If setting up a top rope.
#35 * Sharkfin 5.11- The more than vertical arete just left of Access Crack. A classic little gritsone edge. Makes up for length with difficulty. 25'