Tim Anderson climbing Greenback
Wall 5.11 - 1998
GREENBACK
WALL
Coopers Rock State Forest, WV
Getting There:
As you walk out the
stone walkway to take in the view from atop the famous Coopers Rock Overlook,
you'll pass by 2 pavilions built by the Civilian Conservation Corps around 1940.
These pavilions are constructed of chestnut, once the most common tree upon
Chestnut Ridge, before it was decimated by a blight earlier this century. An
unblazed trail leads straight downhill from the left pavilion, through some
rocks and boulders, to the left of a railing. Below the rocks turn right, and
walk past a "no climbing" sign and a cave to a cliff face with a wide
J-crack up its right side. This face, is lizard wall, which lies within the
No Climbing Zone. Head downhill from here. Soon walk to the left to find an
infrequently climbed cliff of a surprising height; the Greenback Wall is nearly
50' at its center. The first route near the left side of the face, begins at
an obvious layback.
#1 Greenback 5.6 Follow the left-facing layback to a rhododendron-covered ledge. Ascend rounded holds above the ledge to the top. This route is a bit dirty at the top. 40'
#2 In the center of the wall is an excellent 5.11 top rope route that might remind you of the New River Gorge; the rock is more edgy and less rounded than your typical Coopers Gritstone. Follow a flake system that diagonals slightly to the right to a ledge/ roof area. From there, move right, then climb onto the upper wall at a diagonal flake. Move left and up, aiming for a large ear-like flake just below the top, and finish just above it.
#3 Near the right side of the cliff is a shorter route on similar rock, a 35' top rope roof route of about 5.10a or b. Find the roof with a thin, rusted old bolt stub just above it, climb easily up to it, then use right-facing flakes to pull up and over, and head to the top.