COOPER'S ROCK STATE PARK OVERVIEW MAP OF CLIMBING AREAS... by Tim Anderson

This map shows some of the various climbing areas at Cooper's Rock State Forest in WV. This will help you to find the different climbing areas, which you can explore on your own. Listing all the routes would be a serious undertaking as well as already in the process by Rick Thompson whose guidebook is due out. If you would like any additional information, please feel free to email me! Happy Climbing -Tim

A. Overlook Area: (climbing is prohibited in this area) please obey the signs that state "No Rock Climbing" this area is home to some great climbing, which is no longer permitted. It was climbed primarily in the 70's and early 80's until a ban on the park was imposed in '85. It is still a great place to take pictures while visiting the park!

B. Motorcycle Rocks: More boulder problems than actual climbs. There are several interesting boulder problems on these 2 blocks.

C. Haystack Block: This block is home to some of the best slab climbing in the park. It has two sport routes Rebolting Development 5.10c left line and Needle on the Haystack 5.10d right line of bolts. On the back side of the block (riverside) there are several trad routes and around to the left of Rebolting Development is a project line if you'd like to get a first ascent!

D. Greenback wall: Very high quality climbing. It has several climbs on it that are just great. Very similar to climbing at the New River Gorge in WV. This clean face is of the finest quality. It has one trad climb Greenback 5.6, and several stellar 5.11 face climbs.

E. Roadside Rocks: The most popular, congested, trampled area of the park. Not sure why? Maybe it the easy access or the enjoyment of climbing with 500 other climbers each several feet apart! You can obtain a map at the concession stand that will outline the routes on Jimi cliff a.k.a. Sunset Wall. This area is also a popular bouldering destination. The Tendon Repair Kit Face is a very popular area. Roadside is home to many great boulder problems like Woody's Arete V3, The Mountaineer Route V4/5, Greenblock Testpiece V4 and many others.

F. Sunset Wall Extension: This area is beyond the standard Sunset Wall through the woods heading upstream towards Raven Rocks. The climbing in this area is some of the best in the park. You can park at either the main parking lot or at the lot before the main lot on the right and follow the maintenance road on the opposite side of the road. Some of the popular blocks there are High Intensity Block with the super popular Pump it Out 5.11c/d, and Funday Bulge 5.11a both top roped routes. The Good Block has several bolted/mixed climbs on it A Very Good Climb 5.9 and A Good Climb are the picks here. Around the left side of this block is one of the tougher uncompleted "projects" in the park. Join the ranks of flailers on this tough one. Bolts and chains mark the top of the project as well as the descent from the top.

G. Green Acres: A little bit of a hike into, but worth the hike. Doesn't see nearly as much traffic as most of the other areas of the park. Out in the woods with the Rattlesnakes and other critters this crag is home to quite a few good lines. Highly recomended!

H. Raven Rocks: A destination for the tourists of the park and home to very little quality climbing. A nice overlook with not as much traffic as the main overlook, this area is close to Green Acres so can be climbed the same day, although the climbing at Green Acres is much better.

I. Rock City: This area has a large concentration of roped climbs as well as boulder problems. It is another popular area of the park that see a lot of traffic. Around each corner and down every corridor you'll find more and more climbing possibilities. Numerous moderate climbs reside in this area. Some of the more popular are: Colorful Corner/ The Stevie Wonder Arete 5.12a or V4 boulder problem on the right side of Remulus wall. Remus 5.7 on the left side through the roof of Remulus wall, The Watusi 5.9+ on Apollo's Blocks and many, many more... the possiblities are almost endless!

J. Rattlesnake Point: Some of the highest/longest climbs of the park reside here. Access may be obtained from Rock City trail/parking area by following Rock City Trail from the Pavillion past the restrooms on your right and continuing out the trail approximately 150yds. to the large heavily climbed boulder just off trail on your left. Follow the trail into the woods passing the boulder on your left. 30yds in you will come out on top of the rocks. Rattlesnake trail will pass you below the cliff line if coming from the concession stand, just follow Rattlesnake trail to the 50' high rocks. Home to many more advanced climbs this is a nice area to go. Crowds aren't nearly as bad as the other areas, but to get on the best routes you must be able to climb in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. The more popular routes are Morons in Space 5.11b the obvious overhanging roof and flake system near the left side of the wall, Rattlesnake Flake 5.10b near the right side of the wall, and The Anti Weiner 5.12b ascends the very blank looking wall just left of a dead tree stump in about the middle of the cliff. Have fun and crank hard at this sweet area!

K. Junction Block: An area that is growing in popularity each year. This small area reminds me of the climbing at The New River Gorge further south in WV. Steep wall, thin edges and lots of crimpin' produce some 12's. To the right side of this wall is a cave area that has several nice climbs and boulder problems that are very interesting and as difficult as they look!

L Roof Rocks: Near the Henry Clay Iron Furnace, this crag is a nice area to visit every once in a while. Most of the climbs are dirty and not that asthetic. There are a small number of good climbs such as Gets me Horney 5.10b just left of the arete under the right end of the roof, 6' left is Upchouca 5.12a which is easily located by finding the bolt anchors at the right end of the roof (used for TR'ing this route).

M. Cheatview: This area is the most out of the way least frequented of all. It is home to some stellar crack climbs as well as one of the only Aid lines that I know of around. It is accessed from the opposite side of the river. Cross the bridge at the Cheat Lake and head up the mountain to this area. You will be rewarded with some of the best trad cracks on Chestnut ridge. It may take a while to locate, but I've given you the general vicinity now get exploring!

There are other areas of the park, but we'll leave those to be found on your own... Cooper's is a place for exploration and fun! If I told you everything, it would take the fun out of your "finds". Remember to leave no trace and pick up any garbage you see lying around. Do your part to keep the park open to climbing and we'll have it for years to come!