CLIMBING AT COOPERS ROCK STATE PARK, WV
The rock climbing at Coopers Rock State Forest in north central West Virginia is some of the finest gritstone climbing anywhere this side of the Atlantic Ocean. The type of sandstone found here, nicknamed "gritstone" is the same as that found in parts of England, where it has been climbed for several decades and has a colorful history associated with it, particularly with regard to very bold ascents.
Chestnut ridge, a western ridge of the Appalachians, stretching through north-central WV and southwestern PA, is home to numerous outcroppings of gritstone. Coopers Rock State Forest, located only a few miles south of the Mason-Dixon line on Chestnut Ridge at an average elevation of 2100', has a great many of these cliffs and boulders scattered through its woods, making it worthwhile destination point for rock climbers. Personally I've spent the last 6 years exploring the park and finding many small tucked away climbs that make for a nice outing on the weekends when the crowds are at the main climbing areas.
The best bouldering in the state of West Virginia, and some of the best in the entire eastern US, is found at Coopers Rock, the majority of the sandstone blocks scattered throughout the forest are between 10' and 20' high, with boulder problems of every type and difficulty all over them. One could climb here for many years and never do a roped ascent. The areas mentioned here are located in the most popular and easily accessable climbing areas. Expect them to be crowded on weekends. Climbing classes often get there early and setup their ropes. If you want some of these lines, get there early when the park opens. The routes at Coopers are aesthetic, and sometimes very challenging, Plus, the woodland setting of Hemlocks and hardwoods is beautiful, with the cliffs and boulders perched near the rim of the mile wide 1200' deep Cheat River gorge.
The purpose of this guide is to share an area of fine climbing with other climbers. A hard-to-find guidebook written by Bill Webster in the 1970's covers other parts of the forest, but nothing has been published, covering this spot before. On your way to Sunset Wall you'll walk by other blocks and cliffs, and many more lie farther past Sunset as well, which still aren't in any guidebook. So go explore. Coopers is great for that, You can find routes that are rarely if ever climbed and lots and lots of bouldering . This guide will help you get started by guiding you to a lot of high quality climbing concentrated in a few places.
Grading of routes is subjective of course, Some cruxes are height dependent too. As for the route names, no doubt some of these routes have been or are currently called other names, considering that people have been climbing here since the 60's. Those names are just as legitimate as these. Comments on names and grades are welcome. A route gets an * if it is particularly good for its grade. Many other pretty good routes do not have stars. Almost every route here is at least fairly good. <> denotes a traverse. X by the route number will show that it is a reasonably protected lead. The majority of climbs are not. A few others would be necky leads; some, practically solos. EVERY ROUTE, HOWEVER CAN BE TOP ROPED AND THIS PLACE IS GREAT FOR THAT. If you are going to lead, Flexible Cams and TCU's and Tri-Cams on your rack make a big difference.
Publishing guidebooks can have both good and bad consequences. Good climbing is shared with others who may not have known of it. Climbers can meet other climbers who are attracted to the same place, and form partnerships. New routes are climbed. But there is a down side too. Publicity usually causes an increase in use, and with that added activity can come some detrimental effects. So, please consider the following: Chalk --- there's a difference between use and abuse. Use it at cruxes, not on every hold. Keep the cliffs from turning into a climb by numbers gymnasium. Consider cleaning off chalk when rappelling, and not using it on easier routes. Trash: it's only 5 minutes back to the car….. Bolts and Pitons: not on these cliffs, please. There are bolts and pitons on some routes on outlying crags elsewhere at coopers, and at other crags in the Morgantown region., but for here, lead the reasonable, naturally protected leads, and top-rope or solo the others. Vegetation trampling / Removal: respect the forest. If you want to make room at the top of a cliff to top-rope something, your don't need to tear it all away. Be reasonable. Loudness: a forgotten woodland ethic, but an important one. Who likes to have their day ruined by a bunch of loud, obnoxious, inconsiderate people? Nobody. If you're quiet, you won't impact the experience of others, plus you'll hear and see more wildlife. The cliffs are only 40' tall, so don't need to yell.
SUNSET WALL AND THE BIG BLOCKS
To get to the Sunset Wall and the Big Blocks: First turn off at the Coopers Rock exit of I 68, between Morgantown and Bruceton Mills. Then, sign in at the clipboard for climbers hanging outside the Superintendents Office on the north side of the highway. After that, drive south 3 miles along the Forest's main road toward the Overlook, and park in the first of two adjoining parking lots near the concession stand and Overlook. Follow a sometimes vague path from the near left corner for the first lot as you enter it down into the woods. Soon you'll be amongst scattered sandstone boulders. A trail goes upriver amongst them (away from the main overlook area) and Sunset Wall is only a 5 minute walk. Some very good climbs can be found before you even get to Sunset, including some nice cracks and some superb bouldering.
Four obvious features can help you identify Sunset and the Big Blocks if you've never been to them before. At the very left end of Sunset Wall is a low overhang only 7' above the ground, with an obvious crack going out through the roof. At the top left edge of the cliff, 35' up, is a roof band with some cracks in it. Then, there is an obvious left-leaning flake in the center of the face (route #4). Farther right is a chimney gap which separates Sunset Wall Left and Right, shaded by nearby trees.
Routes:
X 1.* Sunset Overhang 5.8 The left-most climb on the wall and one of four ways out the roof band. Follow the black streak up the face to the 2' diagonal hand crack out the roof. Although this climb is leadable, it is a bit runout in the middle 40'
#2. * Wide Point Roof 5.9+ / 5.10- Climb the difficult
face left of the cannonball hole up to the roof 5' to the right
of the Sunset Overhang roof-crack. Somehow surmount the strenuous
ceiling. One can solo climb most of #1 and then do the roof on
#2. #2a* Roof Variation 5.8+ Take the easier, light colored flake
out the roof 3' right of #2. 40'
#3 * Reachy 5.8+ Climb the thin, reachy face up through a difficult bulge and then surmount the roof via an easier diagonal crack. 40'
X #4 * The Arch 5.6 or 5.7 One of the most popular climbs at Sunset. Layback up the obvious left-leaning flake near the center of the wall. Go up and left to the diagonal roof crack of #3 for the 5.7 variation, or step right onto the face near the top of the layback and then head straight up to a crack at the top for the 5.6 version, This 5.6 way is a reasonable lead. 35'
X #5 * Central Face Climb 5.5 Another very popular climb, From 8' to the right of #4 climb up the face to a stance below an organ pipe-like formation. Head up and to the right, aiming for a crack near the top and a hemlock tree at the top. A reasonably protected lead. 35'
#6 Crimper 5.10- Dangle a top-rope down a gritsone face and you can usually find a way up. This way is to the right of #5, through a difficult sequence of sloping holds in the middle of the route, to a crack at the top. 35'
#7 Tweaker 5.10+ / 5.11-? A more difficult route just like #6, 5' to its right. 35'
#8 Stop N' Go 5.9+ This is the right-most route on the wall before the chimney gap. Climb up to a stance below a coppery flaky area. Cling through this part to easier rock above. A two-move wonder with easier climbing above and below. 35'
#9 5.11? This rounded arete at the right of the chimney may have been done. Looks like a hold came off. 30'
#10 * Copenhagen 5.9 One of the finest climbs here. A few feet right of the chimney gap is a line with a pocket about the size of a can of chew halfway up. Climb the face straight up past this round hole. Very nice sequence. 30'
#11 Stockholm 5.7 / 5.8 This face climb, 8' right from #10, finishes up at a pint just to the right of the blocks leaning over the top edge o the cliff. The 5.7 variation goes up a flake, then traverses a few moves left before going straight up. The 5.8 version begins 6' left of the other way and goes straight up. 25'
#12 Hole In The Wall 5.10+ Tough face climbing using the round pocket and some little edges will get you up this short route that's just a little too high and hard to boulder. 20'
#13 Mighty Mite 5.10- A real high boulder problem with a bad fall or a real short climb at the very right end of the wall, Up the face and flake. 20'
#14 <> * The Bottom Line 5.9 The longest climb at Coopers Rock State Forest at a full rope length. This is a boulder problem traverse of the whole Sunset Wall, with several cruxes, numerous rests and variations; and you're never more than 10' off the ground, except if you pull the overhang near the far left end. Start at the horn on the very right edge of the wall, and traverse all the way to the start of Sunset Overhang. Keep going around into the alcove, then (optional) take the obvious beautiful crack (or the flakes 3' to its left) out the low ceiling and up to a big horizontal crack, which you follow left around the corner until you can step down onto the ground. Or reverse the traverse at this point for maximum on-rock time 165'
X #15 * This arete is on the very right side of the Shady Side of the Big Blocks as you face toward the river, with Copenhagen behind you. Use the left face, the corner, and the crack near the top. A nice little adventure on lead. This one I height dependent, so might be easier for some. A top rope variation of similar difficulty goes up the left face at the halfway point toward the big hemlock at the top 30'
<> Shady Wall Traverse - There's a traverse across this wall that starts here and ends at Kern's Corner.
#16 * Wayward Penguins 5.10 find a pistol grip/pinch grip hold halfway up the wall below the huge hemlock. Climb one of a few ways up to it, then use the flakes above it and eventually reach out to a small ledge to the right and mantle up. A more difficult version would completely avoid the ledge and just go straight up. Look for the stone dagger near the top. 25'
#17 Kern's Corner 5.4 / 5.? This is the left side of the same face that #15 and #16 are on. There are two possibilities here. Climb the arete and then the right face to the top for an easy face climb; or stay with the harder arete the whole way up 5.?, being careful of the jaggedy tooth. 25'
#18 Another Green World 5.11 b/c locate a 2' roof about 10' off the ground 20' to the left of the chimney gap between the two Big Blocks. Try and pull onto the face above the roof, and then head for the top. 35'
X #19 * Zig-Zag Wanderer 5.7 / 5.8- find the obvious tight -slanting finger crack that leads to an alcove beneath a large roof. Take the crack to the alcove. Then take the light colored flake out the roof, onto the face, and up to the top, just left of the tree. Protects pretty decently as far as gritstone goes. 40'
#20 Full Moon Afternoon 5.6 This face route goes up some crescent shaped holds to a notch at the top, just left of the roofs. 35'
#21 * Organic Matter 5.4 / 5.5 This is the obvious flake that goes all the way to the top. Nice for its grade, and protectable too. 40'
--the following two are a high quality pair of face climbs-
#22 * Super Alloy 5.10c Very nice face climbing 4' left of the flake. You can use the same anchor point for #21 and #22. 40'
#23 * Titanium Digit 5.10b This popular route goes right up the center of the face, following a vague white streak. You'll come to understand the name near the top of this route. 40'
X #24 The End 5.6 This route goes up the nose/arete at the very far end of the block. 30'
#25 X #26 White Wall Overhangs 5.9 / 5.9+ On the river side of the Big Blocks is some very clean, white colored rock at the bottom of the face, topped by a 2' overhang 10' off the ground. There are two ways through the roofs to the easier, knobby faces above, and at least the left one is leadable. 40'
<> White Wall Traverse starts on the right side of the white wall, Go left across the nice white stone onto darker, bulgy,slick rock as far as you can for the killer forearm pump.
X #27 Riverside Face 5.4 Start to the left of the white rock ( or choose a harder start on it) and head up the vertical knobby face with hand cracks. Lots of pro. 40'
#28 5.8 A white face 12' left of #27. 35'
#29 5.4 A wide, grungy 20' crack.
#30 * Gemstone 5.8 Near the chimney gap that splits the two blocks. Starts at a roof of blocky holds, follows the crack up, then goes up and left to a crescent-shaped feature and to the top. A harder variation goes up and right at the tip of the crack. 25'
#31 Bundle Of Sticks 5.9 A short face route up hidden horizontals that's worth doing if you happen to be doing Gemstone. 25'
-the following two routes are a nice pair, very similar to one another except in difficulty-
#32 * Gypsy Moth 5.9 6' right of the orange streak, up black and white rock via small pockets and rounded edges. 25'
#33 * Carrot Juice 5.7 Go straight up the vertical, pocketed orange streak, just to the right of the gnarled pine at the top edge. 25'
X #34 Access Crack 5.2 This 20' dihedral is a nice first lead or first solo (and downclimb) and is the usual way to get to the top of the blocks If setting up a top rope.
#35 * Sharkfin 5.11- The more than vertical arete just left of Access Crack. A classic little gritsone edge. Makes up for length with difficulty. 25'
Tim climbing Greenback Wall
5.11 - 1998
GREENBACK WALL
Getting There:
As you walk out the
stone walkway to take in the view from atop the famous Coopers Rock Overlook,
you'll pass by 2 pavilions built by the Civilian Conservation Corps around 1940.
These pavilions are constructed of chestnut, once the most common tree upon
Chestnut Ridge, before it was decimated by a blight earlier this century. An
unblazed trail leads straight downhill from the left pavilion, through some
rocks and boulders, to the left of a railing. Below the rocks turn right, and
walk past a "no climbing" sign and a cave to a cliff face with a wide
J-crack up its right side. This face, is lizard wall, which lies within the
No Climbing Zone. Head downhill from here. Soon walk to the left to find an
infrequently climbed cliff of a surprising height; the Greenback Wall is nearly
50' at its center. The first route near the left side of the face, begins at
an obvious layback.
#1 Greenback 5.6 Follow the left-facing layback to a rhododendron-covered ledge. Ascend rounded holds above the ledge to the top. This route is a bit dirty at the top. 40'
#2 In the center of the wall is an excellent 5.11 top rope route that might remind you of the New River Gorge; the rock is more edgy and less rounded than your typical Coopers Gritstone. Follow a flake system that diagonals slightly to the right to a ledge/ roof area. From there, move right, then climb onto the upper wall at a diagonal flake. Move left and up, aiming for a large ear-like flake just below the top, and finish just above it.
#3 Near the right side of the cliff is a shorter route on similar rock, a 35' top rope roof route of about 5.10a or b. Find the roof with a thin, rusted old bolt stub just above it, climb easily up to it, then use right-facing flakes to pull up and over, and head to the top.
HAYSTACK BLOCK
In the woods less than 100 yards farther down from Greenback Wall rests one of Coopers Rock's most unique rocks, Haystack Block. Haystack tumbled part way down the hill an eon or two ago, and came to rest at an odd yet striking angle. You don't have to be a climber to appreciate it all the more, but as a climber you may appreciate it all the more, especially when you reach the summit. This peak pokes above the surrounding tree canopy, and provides an exceptional view of the Cheat River Gorge.
Haystack gives you a true summit experience, a real rarity at Coopers, as you must climb to reach the pointy peak; you can't just hike up the backside and walk through the woods to get to the top of these climbs. But you don't have to climb 5.10 to get to the top, although two popular bolted friction routes at that grade will take you there, because the 5.0 route is always an option. Once you've climbed to the top, notice the inscriptions carved into the rock. The oldest of the dates accompanying the names and initials is 1922.
A traditional site for bolts at Coopers Rock (a predominantly no-bolt climbing area), Haystack has had them at least since the 70's, and in the early 90's climbers replace the original thin and rusted bolts (just stubs by then) with stronger modern bolts.
Few areas the size of Coopers, a relative "backwater" area compared to many of the east's main areas, can brag of such fine and beautiful friction climbing.
#1 The Standard Route5.0, the "Everyman's Route" of Haystack, is accessible to any climber, and some non-climbers also find there way up this route in order to hang out at the top, unknowingly about to learn the hard way that down-climbing is frequently more difficult than climbing up. Climb onto easy rock in the lower righthand side of the uphill face. Diagonal up and right until you reach the nose. Hang a left and head towards the summit, where you'll find bolt and chain anchors. 50'
#2 The Standard Route Direct Variation 5.8 begins over to the right, and involves jumping up from the ground and grabbing the lip of the overhang, moving a few moves right, pulling the roof directly below the nose, then joining the Standard Route to the summit. 50'
#3 Rebolting Development 5.10 (4 bolts, chains), the right hand of the bolted routes, going straight up the middle of the face on absolutely impeccable rock to the summit. 50'
Scott Richards ready to start on Rebolting Development 5.10 - 1996
#4 Needle on the Haystack 5.10 a top rope route halfway between The Standard Route and Rebolting Development, it joins Rebolting Development right near the top. If the 5.10 friction proves too tough, there's an easier top rope variation to try. From approximately the same spot as the start of the hard climbing on Needle, traverse left and a bit up, aiming for the second bolt on Rebolting. Continue left past the bolt to the obvious diagonal crack. Then go right, following the crack, and rejoin Rebolting at the third bolt. (Approximately 5.8+)
#5 Name Unknown 5.10+ (4 bolts chains), is the lefthand of the bolted routes. The rock quality is again flawless, but this route is a bit shorter than Rebolting and has a rest part way up.
Left of this route is an overhanging face with the words "Ted and Bettie 75" painted at its base. Just above "Ted" are the remnants of an old bolt aid ladder. Maybe Ted and Bettie were practicing for a big wall in the valley.
In the department of Striking Contrasts, walk around behind the block, to the riverside face for a look. While expanses of rock at Coopers Rock, the backside is a bizzare lunar landscape of weird, gigantic features, a huge tilted field of knobs and protrusions and gullies that couldn't be more different from the friction face on the opposite side.
#6 Cheat Crack 5.5 starts at the lowest point of the backside and winds up through the weirdscape to the top. Numerous variations exist, including an alternate start left of the regular start. This unique route might just have the best view of any route at Coopers Rock. 65'
Other possiblities exists on this rock. From the summit, you'll notice a slab leading down toward the tip of th eoverhanging upstream face. It is possible to lower someone down the slab on toprope to its bottom edge and then they can slab climb from there back up to the peak. Possibly a difficult toprope route or two can be climbed up the overhanging upstream face.
A lot of the information given is from small guides written by Adam Polinski who has several samplers for a more complete guide being written.
NOTE: As of 6/1/96 There is a new sampler for sale. It can be purchased at the consession stand at Coopers Rock. The Complete Guide being written by Adam Polinski is still in the works. Check back for information on purchasing this guide as it will be a valuable asset to anyone climbing at Coopers Rock.